First to scrape ‘er down with the razor blade
She was in pretty decent shape to begin with but the blacks were faded, there was cobwebs and the bowl, lid and ash pan were all encrusted in crud.
After a good scrape with the razor and scrub with the extra fine steel wool-
Next to clean all the black trim including legs, wire grate shelf on the bottom and charcoal basket and then apply Back To Black to restore the original deep black luster.
All the aluminum was scrubbed with the extra fine steel wool as well. I didn’t spend any time on the thermostatic table as it will be replaced with a newer metal style Performer table when it arrives.
Fired up the gas assist to light a chimney of charcoal. It was nice to not have to use paper or lighter cubes to get the chimney going. Just placed it on top of the gas assist tube filled up the chimney and let it light the coals. After about three minutes the gas assist was turned off and the chimney dud the rest of the work. Dumped the chimney into the Weber charcoal baskets and put them in the center.
The grates that came with the Performer were already in decent shape but I gave them a quick scrub and oiled them down with Peanut oil before placing the rubbed chicken tenderloins offset the coal baskets around the perimeter of the bowl. Placed a small chunk of mesquite in the center for smoke.
When they hit 165 internal they got pulled off to eat.
Waiting for the new style metal table to be delivered tomorrow and handle from Brian😀
You can get these at the Dollar Store. They work very well to protect the unit on your remote thermometer sensor from the rain which will ruin your investment in a hurry.
I know it’s not some high tech revelation but sometimes there are simple solutions that we can pass on. I hear many stories of semi-expensive remote thermometers getting destroyed by rain.
Being transparent they allow you to see the temps without having to take the unit out if the container.
The cord on the probe goes right out the corner and the container can still be locked down to protect from the elements.
This one was $2 and I got it at Ocean State Job Lot in Peabody.
4:40AM Light The Chimney with about 12 Kingsford briquettes and set up the pit for snake method smoking using mesquite chunks and cherry wood chips.
Outside conditions 39 degrees with a light drizzle.
I’m trying a little something different as the beef ribs are so rich and I wanted to cut back on the salt so I put together a beef rub consisting of-
3 tbsp restaurant grind black pepper
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp sugar
2 tsp granulated garlic
2 tsp ancho powder
1 tsp cayenne powder
At the dollar store I picked up this $1 sugar shaker to use to disperse the rub.
First a light slather of yellow mustard for the rub adhesive and then I applied ground Himalayan salt to the ribs as if I was seasoning a steak ( a lot less salt than the 50/50 pepper salt ratio I was using before). Once the salt was on I shook on the rub using the sugar shaker.
5:20AM Ribs Hit The Kettle-
6:57 Update: Temps have fluctuated from 250- 325. I’m not sweating the temps, they’ll be done when they’re done.
9:40AM. Probably the first time ever that I didn’t lift the lid once start to finish. The temps within the first hour varied from 250-325 but after exactly two adjustments she settled into a much tighter range of 270-289.
They were fantastic but probably could have benefited for spritzing at 20 minute intervals during the final hour. I also will absolutely use this rub again as they had a much better pepper/salt flavor.
It should be noted that the Weber unit has been used at our lobster dock since last May and the Broil King Unit just arrived.
Firstly, the Broil King cost $26.99 at the time of purchase and here are the details as listed on Amazon-
Heavy duty all stainless steel design
High density resin handle
Lights up to two pounds of charcoal without starter fluid
The venturi effect will light the charcoal within five to ten minutes
The Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter cost $14.99 and here are teh details as listed on Amazon-
Chimney starter system lights charcoal quickly and evenly
Made from aluminized steel with a stay-cool thermoplastic handle
Holds enough briquettes for a 22-1/2-inch kettle grill
Cone bottom ensures a fast start; eliminates need for lighter fluid
Measures 7-1/2 by 7-1/2 by 12 inches
Opening and using a new bag of Kingsford briquettes for uniformity.
Physical characteristics- The Broil King is shorter, it also has a slight taper to widen just a bit at the top. The Weber seems like it would have more air flow with the wire rings. the Weber also has the hinged handle which when extended will keep your steadying hand further away from the hot coals. They both are well built and sturdy.
The Broil King weighs significantly less- 2.15 lbs vs 3.5 lbs for The Weber
Filling each starter with exactly 4.6 lbs of charcoal the Weber can hold slightly more than the Broil King (not very significantly more but there is a little more space at the top, probably an additional 6 briquettes.
The extended hinged secondary handle on The Weber extends further than the Broil King- 7.25 inches vs 4.5 inches.
Some things I like about the Broil King is that it is stainless. I’m not sure if it will hold up better than the Weber over time but at almost twice it’s cost I doubt you would get almost twice as long with it. Maybe you could though. I also like that the holes in the bottom which are shaped like flames are large enough that you could stick the end of a long lighter into completely whereas on the Weber you have to lift the chimney with one hand and light it from underneath.
For the money I’d purchase the Weber as you could almost afford two for the same price as the Broil King and I don’t see enough significant features that would make it worth almost double the price. In fact The Weber is a little heavier and can hold slightly more charcoal.
Tested The Broil King
Lit two crumpled pieces of newspaper and one Weber Starter Cube in the bottom of the unit at 6:06PM
6:20PM All the briquettes were glowing except for the top row. Ready for the cook.
It was easy enough to handle and the extra handle of the Weber is actually a non-factor one way or another for my use. Pouring the coals into the charcoal basket was easily controlled without the hinged extra handle on the Weber unit. The handle on the Broil King 63980 was cool to the touch and the heat deflector did its job well.
As you can see after the first use it is obviously discolored. This as we know does not effect performance but it’s worth noting that it will not be looking like the stainless out of the package unit that came shipped after it’s initial use.
After one week outside the Broil King Chimney that is supposedly made out of stainless steel has significant rust on it. Another problem I’m encountering is that with the slightest breeze it tips over because it is not very heavy and the weight of the handle topples it making it difficult to fill because you need to hold it with one hand while dumping the charcoal with the other arm.
I can’t under any circumstances recommend the Broil King Chimney, In fact I feel like it should be returned for the simple reason of rusting after only a week outdoors.
Between this 2008 Weber One Touch Gold and the Smokey Joe Silver I cooked at least 6 times a week all spring/summer/fall of 2015. They were both long overdue for a thorough cleaning and restoration. The good thing about Weber kettles is that their finish is so durable, even the worst crud build up and nastiest looking grills can be restored with a little elbow grease and a few inexpensive supplies.
Following the guides from The Weber Kettle Club I picked up a cheap razor scraper that came with 10 extra razor blades and some extra fine #0000 steel wool. A small flathead screwdriver helped get bits of gunk out of some tiny tough spots.
She went from the picture on the left to the picture on the right in a couple hours time with the right tools.
There were several problem spots that needed addressing. One it was dirty from a year of use, with lots of built up crud including spent charcoal ash combined with fat and sauce drippings. The legs of the kettle were cloudy and were just starting to show signs of getting pitted. The vents were covered with smoke residue and pretty gunked up. Lastly one of the wheels was missing a pushnut so every time I moved it outside I’d have to pick up the entire unit and put it down where I was going to cook for fear of a wheel falling off in the middle of a BBQ session.
Now to get started. First scraping the entire inside of the bowl with the razor scraper to take off the large hunks of cooked on debris. It helped to change out the razor blade every third section that I had complete. You will be able to tell when it’s time to change the blade when it becomes more difficult to remove the crap. Working the bowl in quarters you’d be amazed at how much you can get down to that beautiful original porcelain finish.
After razor scraping 3/4
Once you get all the way around the bowl with the razor scraper, drizzle some dish soap like Joy around the bowl and take the steel wool to it. This is where it gets pretty exciting, realizing how sweet it’s gonna come out-
Using some elbow grease and steel wool gets the One touch cleaning system arms polished up nice too-
Do the same thing to the inside of the lid and then work the outside using the same steps.
After scraping half of the lid with the razor scraper and before hitting it with the steel wool-
Next the lid gets the soapy fine steel wool treatment-
Next up the legs and the triangle. The legs were dull and just starting to show the signs of pitting. For the legs I simply used the soapy fine steel wool and they came out great. The triangle was pretty rusted though (not so conducive to the saltwater atmosphere at our lobster dock). I scraped the wires on the triangle with the razor scraper to remove as much of the heavy rust as possible and then it was just a matter of going over them with the soapy steel wool. This requires a little effort but the results are worth it. I probably spent 20 minutes on the triangle. There is still a little rust in the corners but a huge improvement over what I had to begin with.
The ash pan had a good amount of solidified ash/gunk so I filled it half way with war water and gave it a good drizzle of dish soap and let it sit for a couple hours.
After a couple hours it loosened everything up and I scraped the inside of the ash catcher with the razor scraper and then hit it with (you guessed it- the soapy steel wool). Then hit the outside of the ash pan with the steel wool.
Next put a little soap on the wheels and clean them lightly with the steel wool.
Before the wheel with the missing pushnut-
Cleaned and with new pushnut from True Value
I’ve looked them up online and seen the Weber three packs for sale for around $5 and $4-$5 shipping which seems ridiculous. I had been debating doing the restore and spending any money on it but after such a great season and falling in love with it I figure it’s worth the small investment considering how easy they can get to looking great. It’s strange how attached I’ve become to this grill that was given to me and not in particularly good shape (melted handle, missing hubcap, pitted legs). But after countless cooks and seeing the results other WCK members have doing restores and also considering the salty environment of our lobster dock I planned to see just how pretty I can get my dock grill with a little elbow grease.
Anyway for other “Restore” noobs like me that are searching for a replacement for a missing hubcap, know that white 3/8 Pushnuts are available at Ace hardware and I’m betting at most local hardware stores.
It cost me $1.49 for the replacement pushnut.
Hope it helps someone in the future. They aren’t standard color Weber black but I think they look great anyway.
Next up is a Mastertouch/Performer style top vent. I ordered three of them from www.grillparts.com The part is 63070 Charcoal Grill Lid/Bowl Damper Kit for $9.25 each. It isn’t completely necessary but I really like the way they look. A nice touch was the Weber Grills Koozie they tossed into my package for free. I plan to put one one my Lime Green Smokey Joe and Crimson Original Kettle Premium which are still in the boxes in the basement waiting for late spring. The Lime Green Smokey Joe will get the Lower Vent Knob Mod treatment as well.
Thanks to Weber kettle Club forum member @dwnthehatch for the advice that the entire vent doesn’t need to be replaced, the black plastic vent handle can be pried off carefully and popped onto your existing vent tab.
Lastly the kettle was missing it’s front leg cap. I found them in packs of 4 at our local hardware store. The brand is Shepherd and they cost $1.79 for a pack of either white of black. I opted for the black. They are officially called Plastic Leg Tips and you want the 1 inch version.
So that was it. Again I don’t have to remind you how mechanically challenged I am. If I can do all this stuff, believe me you can too and the results are well worth it!
With inspiration and advice from far more mechanically inclined contributors @Bustin Butt and @addicted-to-smoke on the Weber Kettle Club Message board I successfully added a nice lower vent knob to my often used Smokey Joe Grill that I use for lunches at the dock.
First she needed some cleaning from a heavy year of use and neglect in the most brutal of saltwater dock conditions (our lobster company).
After scraping with a razor blade handle to remove the heavy crud, I gave it a good scrubbing with some dish soap and fine steel wool. This Smokey Joe is pretty banged up already so I didn’t get too crazy but the results are pretty remarkable with only about 40 minutes of elbow grease.
So now that I got the Smokey Joe looking nice it was time to man-up and break out the tools. I am probably the least mechanically inclined person I know. Generally whenever I try to save some money by doing something mechanical it ends up costing me double after I end up having to hire someone that knows what they’re doing to fix my mistakes.
Because the Smokey Joe owed me nothing as I’ve cooked on it a ton and it was pretty beat up to begin with, I figure if I was going to try to drill into one of my grills to do a modification, that I’d start out on one that if I completely messed up it wouldn’t be the end of the world.
Then headed to The Building Center where I found the stainless hardware that Weber Kettle Club member @addicted-to-smoke advised me to get. I bought two sets of the hardware which included these items-
5 inch stainless carriage bolts $2.29 each 1/4- 20 thread
1/4 inch split lock washers .22 cents each
stainless 1/4-20 nuts .43 cents each
Next bend the bottom vent tab 90 degrees with a pair of pliers. It bends pretty easily. I doubled over a paper towel to not scratch up the vent tab.
So now for the part where I am nervous that I’m going to royally screw up. The drilling of the hole. I used a 1/4 inch metal drill bit on a Dewalt cordless drill. Pressed down and applied steady but not too much pressure. It skipped a teeny bit so it’s not perfectly centered but no one would notice if they weren’t looking for it as it under the Smokey Joe out of sight. Next time when I do this to the brand new Lime Green Smokey Joe I have sitting in the box in the basement you can rest assured I’ll be getting it precisely in the middle. Anyway here are the parts-
I’be seen quite a few people choose long carriage bolts with big heads on the end and they simply put locking washers and bolts one either side of the vent tab and have the head of the carriage bolt extended out to use as the lever. I liked the way @bustin butt’s mod came out in which the large head of the bolt is on the inside of the vent tab and then you just use the one lock washer and nut to tighten down on the vent tab and screw the threaded knob onto the end of the carriage bolt that is extruding toward you-
Here it is in action-
I’m pretty happy it came out the way I wanted and I didn’t mess anything up!
I was looking for a set of grill gloves to handle the Lodge Cast Iron Skillet. When opening up all the vents on the pit and getting that cast iron searing hot, the last thing you want to do is forget that it isn’t a stove top skillet that you can grab the handle. Often times you want to lift the skillet to redistribute the butter or cooking oil in the bottom of the skillet to coat the bottom. Or you may just want to move it off the direct heat and over the section of the grill that doesn’t have the coals under it.
After a little research I came across these X-Chef Silicon mitts for $9.99 There were similar mitts that looked exactly like these priced anywhere from $12.99-$54.00. I decided for $9.99 I’d give them a shot.
Yesterday when cooking the smash burgers with my daughters I needed to press down on the back side of the spatula to flatten the hamburger and get a good sear on the meat. I first placed the loosely formed round mound of hamburger down on the cast iron pan and then put a piece of parchment paper down and then used my hand to press the spatula down to flatten the meat into a patty. After about ten seconds I felt the heat on the tips of my fingers get very hot very quickly. So I slipped the X-Chef silicon gloves on and had no problem whatsoever. I also lifted the large super hot cast iron skillet up no problem without feeling any heat at all.
With Saint Patrick’s Day just around the corner, there are some great deals out there on brisket. $1.66/lb at Stop and Shop – point cut. It was packed in a completely saturated brine, and I should have soaked it in plain water to cut the saltiness. I didn’t figure this out until the first taste of the finished product.
Unpack. Rinse. Salt. Pepper. Let sit [covered] until it reaches room temp.
Low and slow is the way to go. Grill dome top temp was 300 – 350°, offset fire, bricks and hardwood charcoal mix, soaked mesquite chips, pan with water. I figure the dome top temp is 75-100° higher than offset area of grill.
Beef is pulled at ~165-170° internal temp.
Wrapped plastic over foil – try it. Rest for at least an hour.
Luckily I cooked something to eat because we were too hungry to wait out the rest period. Salt, pepper, low and real slow.